Talk about something you rarely see today. I came across this oddly shaped spoon when I was looking for additional pieces to my silverware set and found a listing for a chow chow spoon. If you’ve never heard of chow chow, you aren’t alone. Chow chow is an American cabbage relish. Used as a condiment on practically everything, it was as common a hundred years ago as pickle relish is today. There are many, many regional versions of chow chow, some include corn and beans, but the common ingredients are cabbage, green tomatoes, bell peppers and onions.
While chow chow’s popularity has waned, it is still made in the South and in the rural Midwest. My grandmother from Iowa made chow chow along with a multitude of other relishes and pickles. I rediscovered chow chow after becoming obsessed with Kimchi, as they are food-cousins of sorts.
Chow Chow spoons were sold with for most sterling patterns from the late 1800s until a little after the turn of the century. Relish dishes were often long and thin, so the chow chow spoon is long and thin with an elongated but small bowl, because a little chow chow goes a long way. Some chow chow spoons have an almost gourd-like shaped bowl, I’m not sure why.
Because chow chow is chunky, chow chow forks were also made, but these are exceedingly rare. British flatware makers had a similar item called a piccalilli spoon, (and fork as well) which was a green tomato relish. My own pattern, Old Colonial, has a spoon labeled as a “chow chow spoon” in one catalog and as “piccalili spoon” in another, but it is the exact same spoon. I’m sure this was a common practice to find uses for regional items in each market, but it does rather call into question the idea that the shape of silverware was made specific to it’s purpose.
Should you decide you want to try to make Chow Chow yourself, here’s a very old recipe from my card files that I updated a wee bit. These are generally the original proportions, but I usually halve the amounts as I make it for summer parties and picnics. Mine is not hot at all, but you can add finely chopped chilis if you want a spicier relish,
Chow Chow
12 cups cabbage, shredded well, (about 6 pounds)
8 cups green tomatoes, sliced thin
6 bell peppers, green, chopped
6 bell peppers, red, chopped
4 cups white onions, sliced thin
Chow Chow Sauce
1 cup flour
2 tablespoons omnivore salt
2 tablespoons dry yellow mustard
2 tablespoons tumeric
6 cups vinegar
1 tablespoon celery seed
1 tablespoon mustard seed
4 cups brown sugar
Two hours before, chop all the vegetables and place in a large bowl. Toss with salt and let sweat. When you’re ready to begin, drain the vegetables and pat dry.
Combine sauce ingredients in a large enameled, cast iron pot and bring to a full boil. Cook for 15 minutes to thicken, stirring carefully. Gently add the vegetables to the sauce. Bring to a boil again, mixing completely and being careful not to let it stick or burn. If you want to be old fashioned, you can preserve the relish in sterilized jars. It is better that way, though I generally let it cool and pack it into air tight containers in the fridge. I find there are plenty of things to put it on.
If you’re not into making your own but you want to try some, I recommend Winfrey Foods Royal Relish, they have three kinds of chow chow, Original, Hot and Nashville Hot, which will singe your tongue. *This is not sponsored, I’ve just bought their chow chow and I like it’s taste. Let me know if there are others I should try!
So, now if you see a long and oddly shaped spoon in your pattern you’ll know what it is. Chow chow spoons, (and forks) were certainly not common purchases, so there are less of them out there, so expect if you want to buy one that they’ll cost a little extra.
I’m hoping you’re all well and happy. Here’s to going on a picnic and taking some chow chow deviled eggs with you. Much Love, Cheri
