I love wearing gloves. My favorite pictures of my mother have her dressed in coordinating outfits, with purse, gloves and shoes, all in complimentary shades. This was in the sixties, basically the last gasp for the glove.
Before the twenties, there was not an hour of the day that ladies were not expected to wear gloves, There were day gloves, afternoon gloves, and evening gloves. Gloves for every sport, for horseback riding and riding in motor cars. Gloves for dancing at balls and gloves with special linings for different kinds of weather. Women of a certain standing would have veritable glove wardrobes to suit every occasion and amongst the wealthiest, every dress. Gloves were symbols of wealth and a sensible way to protect ones hands from he sun in the days before sunscreen. Though glove wardrobes stopped being a requirement by the depression, women still commonly wore gloves when going out. It wasn’t until the late sixties that gloves truly began to be thought of as cold weather items and optional fashion accessories.
I wish I could get away with wearing gloves more often, though now they can make one look as if one is planning a heist or going to be the killer on Murder She Wrote.
So what are the basics of Glove wearing? Well Ladies and Gents, let’s get to know your gloves! First up? Glove length:
Wrist length gloves should have a small slit on the side or back center. This might be left open or may have a button to close it. These are known as “shorty” gloves. They are also known as “two-button” gloves. These gloves will just barely glance the wrist.
Driving gloves are shorty gloves that have perforations in the leather for air flow and may or may not have the fingers removed for better grip of the steering wheel. They will usually have a large gap at the wrist, exposing the base of the thumb and a snap enclosure at the wrist.
Gloves that extend above the wrist two to three inches are known as “slip on” gloves or “four-button” gloves. They’re usually about 10-11 inches long. These gloves are most often seen in the day time.
“Gauntlet Gloves” or “Six-Button” gloves are 12-13 inches. Often these flare out or have fringe as they are likely based on either a 17th Century style or Western style. These gloves were regularly seen in the 30’s to the 50’s for daytime use. In the 30’s and 40’s they were seen with nearly every sleeve length and were one of the most common styles of gloves for women. By the fifties these gloves were generally meant for wear with 3/4 sleeves that reach just below the elbow. For the fifties look, there should be an inch of bare skin between the glove and the sleeve.
There are also six-button gloves that are fitted all the way to the forearm. These were often seen with day suits and three quarter length sleeves.
Let us take a moment to pause and discuss Mouquetaire – which are long formal gloves with an extended row of little buttons that are fastened up the arm. The number of buttons made these gloves less practical and so are thought of as fancy dress. For a long time these gloves were worn in the realm of the upper classes, where you could find them in a plethora of colors and fabrics, but as all things are bound to change, burlesque performers began using the slow tease of unbuttoning their gloves to heighten the tension of their acts and so button gloves, (any over the elbow gloves really) in any fabric beside fine leather or kid and in any color other than white or black, came to be generally considered tacky.
Once you reach “Eight-Button” gloves (14-15 inches), you are in the realm of formal or evening wear. I say or, because there are eight-button gloves that were meant to go with ladies evening suits which were not strictly “formal”. Informal eight-button gloves will not include buttons or an opening. If they have buttons, they are evening wear and meant to go with an evening gown. These are also know as “three-quarter length” gloves. They should reach close to or just below the elbow.
The “Elbow Length” or “Twelve-Button” glove is where you begin the serious formal wear for women. These gloves should reach just above your elbow and will likely be 16-18 inches long. Now my grandmother said that “if the glove goes above the elbow the dress should reach the floor”. If the dress was for dancing and was above the calf, you should be wearing the eight-button glove or shorter. Hollywood and fashion magazines took some liberties with this, and there was a period in the forties that short dresses and evening gloves did pair together, but that had to do with a mix of fabric rationing and war-time practicality. In bougie circles, the elbow was the line in the sand which indicated evening wear.
The “Opera Length” or “Fourteen-Button” glove is the one you may have seen in old images of ladies at the most formal events. This glove should reach your mid-bicep and will be 22-23 inches long. These could be worn with flutter sleeves, cap sleeves, strapless or sleeveless gowns.
Finally, you reach the “Twenty one-Button” glove. These are 24-25 inches long and reach basically to just below your armpit. They are worn with sleeveless and strapless gowns. When you get gloves this long it’s very dramatic and also rife with pit-falls. If these gloves are not fitted impeccably they will look silly and likely fall down. Really this is true any glove over 22 inches.
Now, what are some tips for wearing gloves? Well:
“The Manner in which you carry your gloves can not only rumple your gloves, but your appearance. And the correct method of putting gloves on and taking them off can save a lot of wear and tear on both your nerves and your gloves…
Putting On Gloves
Slip your hand down into the glove, and put in on by grasping the glove. If the gloves are snug, smooth the fingers on carefully by starting at the fingertips and smoothing toward the palm. Never push between the fingers.
Removing Gloves
Don’t grasp the cuff and pull your gloves off, turning them inside out in the process, This leaves you with the unpleasant job of righting them again, and can stretch the gloves out of shape. Do pull gently at the tips of each finger, until you can hold the fingertips of the Gove, free of your fingers, and slide your hand out easily.”
Nancy Taylor’s Beauty Guide, 1963
Well, this post got long fast! Part two will cover the historical etiquette of glove wearing.
I hope you are well and happy. Much love, Cheri
