Obscurities: The Breakfast Tray

“The house guest who remains for some time may have her breakfast served on a tray so that she may not find it necessary to appear until the hostess has accomplished some necessary work. Also, an invalid usually has her breakfast served in this manner. The tray, which must be large enough to contain the breakfast without crowding and covered with a napkin or tray cloth, should be arranged as daintily as possible. Usually the breakfast on a tray consists of not much more than fruit, toast or rolls, an egg or cereal and coffee. A single rose or a few small flowers add a nice touch.”

Serving Entertaining Guest Etiquette Children’s Parties, WILC (1929)

Now this is the life! Good Housekeeping Magazine, 1934

When people use breakfast trays today, it’s likely on Mother’s Day. Few of us have servants bringing us our breakfast in bed on a tray, nor do we often have house guest that expect us to serve them each morning. Invalids rest at the hospital and if they are at home, it is unlikely they will expect hotel styled service from the other inhabitants of the house. So, I’ll admit this isn’t particularly useful knowledge, but if you want to really do it up one holiday or give your significant other a real treat, here is the proper setting of a breakfast tray.

Table Settings and Service by the Delineator Institute
Placement of the breakfast tray. Amy Vanderbuilt’s Complete Cookbook by Amy Vanderbuilt

“Unless the tray is a fancy one made particularly for the purpose, and decorated accordingly, it should be covered with a white cloth. If a napkin is used, it may be folded through the center to fit any sized tray. Be sure the dishes for hot food are hot, and those for the cold food chilled. The silver is place in the same position as for any cover. Place all the handles of the cups, pitchers, coffee-pot or teapot at the right as they are much more easily handled in this position. The plate is placed in the center and a little platter may be placed just back of it. Silver covers for the small platter are a great aid in keeping the food hot.”

Table Service and Decoration by Lilian M. Gunn, 1928

Junket booklet, 1920’s. Rather than an eggcup, it has, wait for it… Junket!

Because there are so many choices for breakfast foods, the arrangement really needs to suit the meal. Where I do think most service guides are correct is in that the portions should be small. You aren’t Norms; a stack of five pancakes, eggs, sausages, coffee, juice and hash browns won’t look appealing all piled up and will be harder to manage. You’re Mother’s Day surprise won’t seem so wonderful if mom has to wash the sheets and covers afterwards. If you want a huge breakfast groaning with food, you’re better off serving it at a table.

Coffee Pot, lidded server, bread plate, cereal bowl and egg cup. The Art of Cooking and Serving. This is a hearty breakfast on a tray.

Breakfast trays remained popular well into the 1980’s but seemed to fall out of favor in the 1990’s. Likely, this has to do with the general lessening table formality and the fact that we rarely have someone to serve us the breakfast in bed, nor would we likely serve our weekend guests in their bedroom.

Gourmet October 1977

A note for the would be purchaser: Vintage breakfast sets can still be found and silver is not necessary. Porcelain covered sets were available even at the time Ms. Gunn was writing. But a little warning, vintage breakfast sets do not come cheap. These were not commonplace even in their day and most lost a piece or two over the years, so finding a complete antique set will put you back a bit. Also, sets vary widely. British sets will very likely have a tea pot and tea cup, while French sets may have a coffee pot and coffee bowl. There are sets with chocolate pots, or sets with both a tea and coffee pots. Some have egg cups, or ramekins, and some have toast racks. While there were companies that sold uniform breakfast sets, the best sets were often ordered piece by piece to suit the taste of a wealthy owner who would have been served breakfast in bed by staff.

Tea pot, toast rack, jam pot, salt cellar and pepper pot – Vogue’s Manual of Smart Service and Table Setting, 1930 is a little more fancy.

Check out my blog on Tray Cloths for a more breakfast tray goodness.

An unusual oval tray used at breakfast with coffee pot, toast rack, butter pat and ramekin dish.

I hope there is someone who is spoiling you with a tray in bed. Or maybe there’s someone you’re spoiling. If not, maybe spoil yourself! I’m sending you much love, Cheri

The hubster gave me breakfast in bed using my French breakfast set. First rule of marital etiquette is when he does something this lovely, don’t mention that he forgot the tray cloth.
The International Cook Book by Margaret Weimer Heywood (1929)