So, you’re in London and you want to eat a great meal? I’m going to be honest here, it’s true that most of the great meals I’ve had in London were Indian. I’ve been a bit let down by British fine dining, but always buoyed up by the street food. You just can’t beat fish and chips. That said, I do have a number of British favorites.
It was just great luck that I happened to go to Wilton’s for the first time. It was for work that I’d gone and in the course of that day I ate one of the top ten food items I have ever eaten – The Stilton Soufflé. Now, when I go to London, I always have to go to Wilton’s.
Most importantly for a blog like this, it’s not just the great food you’re going to enjoy when visiting Wilton’s, it’s the long and storied history.
Before it was a restaurant, Wilton’s was a shellfish stall opened in 1742 by George William Wilton and then run by his son, Francis. In 1805, the stall was left to his nephew William Wilton, who married rich and upgraded the stall to include a restaurant; Wilton’s Shellfish Mongers and Oyster Rooms.
When William died 1824 his wife Frances and then son Robert moved the Oyster Rooms several times and in 1840 the Oyster Rooms obtained a license sell wine and beer and in 1868 it received its first Royal Warrant as Purveyor of Oysters to Queen Victoria. The next son, Frank Wilton, died childless and so the restaurant left the Wilton family.
In the 1930’s Wilton’s was owned by a woman, Bessie Leal. There is a wild story that during the Second World War, Bessie survived a nearby bombing while speaking with a customer, Olaf Hambro. Deciding to quit wartime London, Bessie asked if Olaf knew of anybody who would be in a position to purchase the restaurant, to which he replied that she could “put the restaurant at the end of the bill!”
Olaf hired Jimmy Marks, who at the time was the Oysterman at the Bucks Club, to run the restaurant. Jimmy realized that Wilton’s clients were aristocrats and diplomats and thought they would respond well to the waitresses being dressed as nannies. Yup, nannies. Apparently, many took their role to heart and could be heard denying the customers dessert if they didn’t eat their greens. Luckily, all of that has gone by the wayside and now the waitstaff at Wilton’s are made up of professionals who are seriously great at their jobs.
When you’re in the restaurant you feel surrounded by British history. Though I felt connected more in the 1980’s city trader way, than in the turn of the Century aristocratic way. Wilton’s is still known as a prime place for Oysters, but honestly, everything there is delicious. They still bring a carving trolly to the table if you eat that sort of thing, which always reminds me of that scene in Howard’s End when Anthony Hopkins tips the carver at Simpson’s.
Wilton’s is pricey, but it’s worth it if you want a very British experience while visiting Britain. Do note that they expect you to dress according to a dress code when you visit. I rather enjoy this as it really lends to the feeling that you’re having an out of the ordinary experience and allows one to experience a period of time that has mostly long passed.
55 Jermyn Street, London, SW1Y 6LX / 020 7629 9955 / reserve@wiltons.co.uk
Have you been to Wilton’s in London? If so, what did you think?
Hope to see you out and about soon. Much love, Cheri.
